How often do you have to observe a simplified approach in choosing a style from fabrics with a pattern. Quietly copied dresses with a variety of sizes, rhythmic alternation, mood picture. But if you delve into, understand the nature of the drawing, how wider the scale of possible solutions will expand, and the dresses will become more expressive, because the logic of the figure is noticed and reinforced in style. The fashion designer, receiving the next task, studies its construction features for a long time, gets accustomed to his theme, and wonders what elements will tell the style themselves. Decides in which silhouette his beauty is best manifested, the image of which fashion model he will suit.
This is taught by an ancient costume, where the drawing always worked for the image, was in tune with both the silhouette and the volume of the dress. We look through the costume storybook. Let's go through the pages of history. Gothic: all forms of costume and appearance are stretched up and extremely narrowed, the lines of the silhouette are simple and rigid. And the picture - on a smooth background, the simplest motifs of rhombuses, triangles, dry and geometrically correctly depicted plants, as if scratched by a needle or laid out from a wire, are rarely scattered. It is impossible to imagine a full-blooded live run of flowers. Everything is strict, concise and as if emasculated - in harmony with the ideals of austere asceticism. During the Renaissance, the silhouette becomes powerful - heavy fabric, heavy folds and huge woven with gold - just one enough for the bodice - seven-petalled roses. The size of the pattern, the roundness of the outlines, the bulge - all echoes the ideal of physical magnificence. Another picture is rococo. A female doll is in fashion, tender and light, and therefore, the drawing of the most delicate colors: masterfully executed watercolor bouquets of flowers, rows of narrow stripes interspersed with floral garlands. Color, delicate drawing - everything is small, elegant, playful.
The beginning of the XX century, Art Nouveau style. The ideal is an image of spirituality: huge eyes, a lush hairstyle raised up, a dress flowing down from light fabrics. The pattern is modest, gentle, not distracting from the main thing in the appearance - the spirituality of the face, eyes. These are small peas, tiny, as poppy seeds, specks, dots, the thinnest branches.
20s - “industrial” image, where the leading silhouette is a rectangular shirt-dress. And the drawing is one geometry: rhombuses, rectangles, peas. Finishes - direct edging, geometric inserts. In the 30s, this image was replaced by the very opposite - feminine, with long dresses, almost to the ankles, with a flowing silhouette and plastic fabrics. And then the picture changes. In soft colors, an intricate pattern of small flowers is flexible and lyrical, like the dress itself.
Mini fashion, 60s. The most spectacular dress at this time has a pattern so large that one motive was enough for the whole dress. It is clear that the dress itself is just a tiny vest in a loose, flared silhouette, and a large pattern enclosed in a small form tends to go beyond it and visually reduces it even more.
So, probably, it’s quite clear how drawing language is eloquent and expressive. How to use it in modern fashion? Today, when the main word is style, it is important that the style of the picture reinforces the style of the dress. And here it is useful to know that all patterns are divided into two types. One of them is static. The motives here are symmetrical, arranged in a strict rectangular or checkerboard pattern. Most often these are patterns, motifs are geometric. They require the same rigor in constructing the style. From a "checker", for example, frills, wings, flared skirts, rounded lines of seams are not suitable. All edges of the parts should be laid in a straight line parallel to the direction line of the pattern, therefore a geometrically accurate silhouette is desirable, the skirts will be only straight or pleated, collars and pockets - rectangular in shape. Such fabrics are most often two-tone, and here is especially good finish in the tone of the pattern, emphasizing the design: stitching, edging, trimming, belts, ribbons at the gate.
And the second type of pattern is dynamic, vibrant, where patterns are freely scattered across the fabric. On the contrary, it is not “at ease” if it is enclosed in geometric, strict forms of cut. Any unnecessary seam prejudices him. Especially on the back, which is generally considered just a marriage. The silhouette lines are in harmony with the style of the pattern. The larger, livelier the picture, the more relaxed it should be in the dress. Where he will get this will - in a tick skirt, in a generously assembled sleeve, in a bodice with a lap - will decide the specific style.
If the pattern is large, immediately tune in to the fact that in this case you will not be decorated with a style, but with a bright, effective piece of fabric. Buy such a fabric with a margin.
How to be careful if something needs to be “corrected”, smoothed, smoothed in the appearance! A young plump woman is eyeing a tissue in spherical buds. “Where are you going, ” the friend says. “There’s enough in you and so on.”
They put cloth on her. The face really began to seem rounder, the figure is denser. They tried another - in soft spills of watercolors, but in it the figure seemed shapeless and vague, like the fabric itself. But here they finally found: light contours of branches with a vertical direction. And a miraculous cessation occurred - the whole "roundness" disappeared, the woman became fit and slim.
Of course, you noted that in the history of the costume a large pattern was repeated twice: when it was necessary to give the figure a monumentality, an even larger volume during the times of mini-fashion.
It is better for a lean-skinned woman with pointed features to give up everything that is tough and pointed in the drawing. Of course, one should not completely abandon the dominant of his appearance, otherwise the style of the image will be lost. But let it be not just a narrow strip, but a strip alternating with floral ornaments, which will soften it. Peas - smaller, rounded cups of flowers with sharp leaves, etc.
