The lower drain tank is usually preferred due to a more aesthetic appearance. The upper tank in our time is used less and less, although it is more reliable. One of the problems of the lower tank is the fragility of its plastic parts, which can break. The tank has openings in the bottom into which bolts with a rubber washer are inserted. Bolts are usually not brass, but iron. Over time, they rust and begin to leak. It is necessary to completely disassemble the tank and change the bolts. If the tank is dug, but the bolts are not badly damaged by corrosion, a simpler method can be used.
1. Turn off cold water.
Usually a ball valve goes to the tank. If it does not overlap, it must be replaced. After turning off the water, it is necessary to drain the water from the tank and wait 1 hour for the porcelain to return to room temperature, because cold impairs adhesion to putty.
2. Sealing.
It is necessary to take a construction putty (Velcro) and seal the space between the stand attached to the toilet and the tank. The space must be completely covered up. You can use putty for windows (it is like plasticine). In the second case, the quality of work may be worse and a repeat operation will be required.
3.Insulation of bolts.
It is necessary to remove the tank cap and coat with the same material the bolt heads. Bolts after coating should not be visible. It is desirable that the bottom of the tank be dry so that the water does not interfere with adhesion.
4. Finalization.
After the work, the tank may leak for some time, then it will stop. If water enters the stand, grease the gap again. This can be done without removing the putty, or by removing it. Before spreading, the surface can be warmed up with a gas stand, it can be coated with “super torque” glue, but the effectiveness may be dubious due to the ceiling arrangement of the joint.
